Rolex ‘Non-Oyster’ Perpetual in Yellow Gold – 1955

7,950

Offered here is an uncommon and early example of Rolex ingenuity: a 1955 Rolex Perpetual (serial 10.190) housed in an 18k yellow gold, French-made, non-Oyster case. Born of a specific moment in postwar regulation, this watch was cased in France under the gold import restrictions of the era—when only movements could cross the border, and final casing had to be completed locally with government oversight. As such, it carries a distinctly French signature, diverging from the standard Swiss-cased Oyster models of the time. The case remains crisp, with refined lugs and a slim, elegant silhouette that reflects the design language of mid-century Europe. The automatic movement beats steadily, delivering on the promise of the “Perpetual” name. With its unique provenance and subtle presence, this piece offers something quietly different for the collector drawn to nuance over notoriety.

Category:

Description

Why it stands out:
– Rare ‘non-oyster’ case.
– Unpolished.
– Stepped bezel & stepped bull-horn lugs.
– Rare original 18k French hallmark Rolex pin buckle.
– Cal. A296 bubble back movement.

What you should know:
– Nick to the right upper lug.
– Later strap.

General information:
While the dial and its original, near-impossible-to-source original Rolex pin buckle certainly hold their own, it’s the case that truly elevates this example. The interplay between the mirror-polished lugs and brushed case sides, along with the stepped bezel and flowing, faceted lugs, hits all the right notes—both rare and visually compelling. It is clear and without doubt this case has not been polished in its past. Watch case and buckle bears 5 (!) distinct eagle head hallmarks (French for 18k).
The arrowhead hour markers add character, each featuring twin notches to accommodate small radium lume plots, which have left behind a subtle and honest radium burn. The original handset, including the central sweep seconds, remains intact, with both dial and hands showing the expected no-glow response under UV. Inside, the Cal. A296 sits untouched and continues to keep accurate time.

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Thank you for your interest.

Additional information

Manufacturer

Rolex

Material

18K Yellow Gold

Dimensions

34,1mm

Year

1955

Caliber

A296