This might not be the most in depth and knowledge enriching story online but nevertheless fun and interesting. Maybe even to be used as a chart when one of you is offering their own watch for sale and doesn’t know what that specific type of hands is called.
Many hands have acquired some sort of nickname to distinguish one from another. Some of them very well know (Breguet hands), and some of them less known (Plongeur hands).
If, after reading this story, you think of a set of hands that’s still missing please feel free to contact us and we’ll make sure to add them to this story.
‘A Tact’
Let’s start with coolest watch ‘hand’; this is the ‘A Tact’ complication invented by Breguet. The diamond set arrow rotates in alignment to the hour hand. Together with the pearls which are positioned at each hour on the edge of the case, the owner can ‘feel’ the time. Breguet invented this complication in the late 1700s. As described in one of Abraham letters to acquire a patent on his new complication, he said he often found himself in a situation where he wanted to know how late it was. At those occasions it would have been considered rude to take out your pocket watch and look at the time. He described the situation more vividly. As he attended many fancy dinners, being one of the most famous personalities of his time, he often felt uncomfortable at those occasions and therefore trying to figure out how much longer he would have to wait before he could leave. We’ve all experienced something familiar, but only Breguet decided to invent a new type of pocket watch.
‘A Tact’
Let’s start with coolest watch ‘hand’; this is the ‘A Tact’ complication invented by Breguet. The diamond set arrow rotates in alignment to the hour hand. Together with the pearls which are positioned at each hour on the edge of the case, the owner can ‘feel’ the time. Breguet invented this complication in the late 1700s. As described in one of Abraham letters to acquire a patent on his new complication, he said he often found himself in a situation where he wanted to know how late it was. At those occasions it would have been considered rude to take out your pocket watch and look at the time. He described the situation more vividly. As he attended many fancy dinners, being one of the most famous personalities of his time, he often felt uncomfortable at those occasions and therefore trying to figure out how much longer he would have to wait before he could leave. We’ve all experienced something familiar, but only Breguet decided to invent a new type of pocket watch.
Breguet
Following up on Breguet’s ‘a tact’ complication, here’s one of the most well known hands out there. Although the name suggests Abraham Louis Breguet was the one that designed the ‘Breguet’ hand, it actually was Jean-Antoine Lepine (1720). Lepine was a horologist in Geneva and made a big number of lepine verge fusee pocket watches during his lifetime.
It was Breguet who took over this design from Lepine who he looked up to as a younger kid.
Abraham Breguet acquired so much fame over the last centuries because of his ever innovative way of designing special movements, such as the tourbillon, that the design of hands and numerals automatically became equally well known around the world.
Breguet
Following up on Breguet’s ‘a tact’ complication, here’s one of the most well known hands out there. Although the name suggests Abraham Louis Breguet was the one that designed the ‘Breguet’ hand, it actually was Jean-Antoine Lepine (1720). Lepine was a horologist in Geneva and made a big number of lepine verge fusee pocket watches during his lifetime.
It was Breguet who took over this design from Lepine who he looked up to as a younger kid.
Abraham Breguet acquired so much fame over the last centuries because of his ever innovative way of designing special movements, such as the tourbillon, that the design of hands and numerals automatically became equally well known around the world.
Spade
The name of this set of hands comes from the hour hand which obviously looks a lot like a Spade from a card deck, which originates his name from an actual spade as it looks very similar to the earlier designs of the dirt scooping tool. This type of hand had been used in pocket watches and clocks for a very very long time. Way before the symbols of a card deck were designed. It is not certain when the hands acquired the nickname ‘spade hands’.
Spade
The name of this set of hands comes from the hour hand which obviously looks a lot like a Spade from a card deck, which originates his name from an actual spade as it looks very similar to the earlier designs of the dirt scooping tool. This type of hand had been used in pocket watches and clocks for a very very long time. Way before the symbols of a card deck were designed. It is not certain when the hands acquired the nickname ‘spade hands’.
Syringe
One of our favourites. As many of these hand style names originate from something that visually looks like them this one is no exception. Just like a (hospital) syringe, these hands start thin shortly, then become wide (often filled with radium, tritium or luminova) to finally end in a pointy way. Once you see it, it is uncanny and hard to not notice your syringe shaped hands.
Syringe
One of our favourites. As many of these hand style names originate from something that visually looks like them this one is no exception. Just like a (hospital) syringe, these hands start thin shortly, then become wide (often filled with radium, tritium or luminova) to finally end in a pointy way. Once you see it, it is uncanny and hard to not notice your syringe shaped hands.
Fleur de Lys
Originating from the symbol used in French Royalty, these ‘fleur de lys’ hands are one of the more classier once out there. If you speak a bit of French you quickly learn ‘fleur de lys’ is a simple translation of ‘lily flower’, Often found and processed in attributes linked to the French Royalty, or simply in many antique metal gates.
Fleur de Lys
Originating from the symbol used in French Royalty, these ‘fleur de lys’ hands are one of the more classier once out there. If you speak a bit of French you quickly learn ‘fleur de lys’ is a simple translation of ‘lily flower’, Often found and processed in attributes linked to the French Royalty, or simply in many antique metal gates.
Sword
Quite the obvious as the nickname reveals the shape of these hands. The design of these hands that look a lot like sword blades are somewhere around one century old. Often used by Cartier in both their gents and ladies wristwatches.
Sword
Quite the obvious as the nickname reveals the shape of these hands. The design of these hands that look a lot like sword blades are somewhere around one century old. Often used by Cartier in both their gents and ladies wristwatches.
Dauphine
Very common type of hands, especially in the 50s and 60s by numerous major Swiss brands. The hands are triangle shaped and often facetted. Apparently, the name originated from the eldest son from the French king Henry the XIV.
Dauphine
Very common type of hands, especially in the 50s and 60s by numerous major Swiss brands. The hands are triangle shaped and often facetted. Apparently, the name originated from the eldest son from the French king Henry the XIV.
Alpha
Personally a highly appreciated design with a likeable elegance and simple yet strong feel to it. Not uncommon on many vintage and modern wrist watches of top shelf brands. Iconic on the earlier Omega Speedmasters from the 60s, with the three subdial hands also designed in the ‘Alpha’ shape. Modern watches like many complicated A Lange & Söhne pieces are equipped with the stunning ‘Alpha’ hands too.
Alpha
Personally a highly appreciated design with a likeable elegance and simple yet strong feel to it. Not uncommon on many vintage and modern wrist watches of top shelf brands. Iconic on the earlier Omega Speedmasters from the 60s, with the three subdial hands also designed in the ‘Alpha’ shape. Modern watches like many complicated A Lange & Söhne pieces are equipped with the stunning ‘Alpha’ hands too.
Mercedes
The actual Mercedes Benz logo is a three-pointed star, with each point representing a different method of transportation: land, sea, and air. Some believe that Rolex chose a similar motif for the hour hands of their sport watches to represent the different environments that their sport lines were intended to conquer: Explorer (land), Submariner (sea), GMT-Master (air).
Though this is a fun and interesting idea of how this ‘mercedes’ style hand was developed, it is quite certain Rolex designed this particular hour hand with a larger luminous filling for the divers so they could tell the time more easily way down below the water surface. They came up with this ‘mercedes’ hand design because the circle was too big to hold the lume. By adding three thin lines coming together in the middle, Rolex divides the circle’s size by three making the luminous filling hold better in place. Just like the design of the ‘cathedral’ hand which will be discussed later on.
Mercedes
The actual Mercedes Benz logo is a three-pointed star, with each point representing a different method of transportation: land, sea, and air. Some believe that Rolex chose a similar motif for the hour hands of their sport watches to represent the different environments that their sport lines were intended to conquer: Explorer (land), Submariner (sea), GMT-Master (air).
Though this is a fun and interesting idea of how this ‘mercedes’ style hand was developed, it is quite certain Rolex designed this particular hour hand with a larger luminous filling for the divers so they could tell the time more easily way down below the water surface. They came up with this ‘mercedes’ hand design because the circle was too big to hold the lume. By adding three thin lines coming together in the middle, Rolex divides the circle’s size by three making the luminous filling hold better in place. Just like the design of the ‘cathedral’ hand which will be discussed later on.
Snowflake
This nickname is so striking and likeable, a whole watch got named after the design of the hands. The Tudor Snowflake made its entrance in the watchworld in 1969 as the second series of submarines by Tudor (ref 7016 & 7021). A striking design with large luminous hour markers and hands. The reasoning behind these bold accents was to offer more surface area on the dial for luminescence, thus providing better legibility whilst scuba diving in low light conditions. Additionally, due to their distinct shapes, the hands could immediately be identified from one another, minimizing the possibility of divers mixing up the hour and minute hands while diving in murky waters.
Snowflake
This nickname is so striking and likeable, a whole watch got named after the design of the hands. The Tudor Snowflake made its entrance in the watchworld in 1969 as the second series of submarines by Tudor (ref 7016 & 7021). A striking design with large luminous hour markers and hands. The reasoning behind these bold accents was to offer more surface area on the dial for luminescence, thus providing better legibility whilst scuba diving in low light conditions. Additionally, due to their distinct shapes, the hands could immediately be identified from one another, minimizing the possibility of divers mixing up the hour and minute hands while diving in murky waters.
Lance
Very similar to the Alpha hands, however, they tend to be more slender. Named for the long slender shape of the hands, similar to the long, pointed weapon used by horsemen in jousting. The lance hands gradually taper out from the center to a narrow pointed end.
Lance
Very similar to the Alpha hands, however, they tend to be more slender. Named for the long slender shape of the hands, similar to the long, pointed weapon used by horsemen in jousting. The lance hands gradually taper out from the center to a narrow pointed end.
Cathedral
Commonly used in pocket watches with the majority in military made and issued pieces. These hands have a large luminous surface as the hands are a lot more wider compared to others.
The Jaeger-leCoultre WWII pocket watch with large luminous Arabic hour indication is accompanied with these striking ‘Cathedral’ hands and one of the more common vintage pieces with these hands. Unfortunately these pieces had a bad dial coating process so many of those dials are in really bad condition.
The name is simply referred to as the hands look quite a bit like stained glass from a cathedral.
Cathedral
Commonly used in pocket watches with the majority in military made and issued pieces. These hands have a large luminous surface as the hands are a lot more wider compared to others.
The Jaeger-leCoultre WWII pocket watch with large luminous Arabic hour indication is accompanied with these striking ‘Cathedral’ hands and one of the more common vintage pieces with these hands. Unfortunately these pieces had a bad dial coating process so many of those dials are in really bad condition.
The name is simply referred to as the hands look quite a bit like stained glass from a cathedral.
Baton
The ‘Baton’ hands are as simple as a watch hand can get. A ‘stick’ without difference in thickness or shape is the simple description we would come up with for this hand. Nevertheless there are many variations with different use of lume or other materials such as onyx. Funny fact is, this type of hand has never been used in antique pocket watches.
Baton
The ‘Baton’ hands are as simple as a watch hand can get. A ‘stick’ without difference in thickness or shape is the simple description we would come up with for this hand. Nevertheless there are many variations with different use of lume or other materials such as onyx. Funny fact is, this type of hand has never been used in antique pocket watches.
Lollipop
A true money maker on some particular vintage pieces. A Speedmaster CK2998 with a lollipop hand can easily add 10.000€ to the average retail price. Although it seems unnatural that a small piece of metal with a lume filled circle at the end would be worth such an amount, we do understand, with all the crazy prices vintage watches fetch the last couple of years, that the lollipop hand is one of those eye catching extras that can make a watch look so so good. Still looks strange seeing a single lollipop secondhand listed at 8.000$ on Ebay.
Lollipop
A true money maker on some particular vintage pieces. A Speedmaster CK2998 with a lollipop hand can easily add 10.000€ to the average retail price. Although it seems unnatural that a small piece of metal with a lume filled circle at the end would be worth such an amount, we do understand, with all the crazy prices vintage watches fetch the last couple of years, that the lollipop hand is one of those eye catching extras that can make a watch look so so good. Still looks strange seeing a single lollipop secondhand listed at 8.000$ on Ebay.
Arrow
Arrow hands are rather obvious based on their name – the ends of the hands come to a pointed arrow shape. Also known as the broad arrow hand used by Omega on the first speedmaster (2915-1) and some other vintage examples like the Ranchero, Railmaster or the Seamaster 300. Personally we really appreciate the looks of the broad arrow hand, maybe even best from all hands discussed above.
Arrow
Arrow hands are rather obvious based on their name – the ends of the hands come to a pointed arrow shape. Also known as the broad arrow hand used by Omega on the first speedmaster (2915-1) and some other vintage examples like the Ranchero, Railmaster or the Seamaster 300. Personally we really appreciate the looks of the broad arrow hand, maybe even best from all hands discussed above.
Now some more uncommon hands that might have been a bit forgotten in today’s watch market. These pocket watch hands are nevertheless interesting in design and origin.
Hollow Spade
On the right we see a hollow spade hand on an 18th century verge fusee pocket watch I bought a year ago in the west of England. Both the hour and minute hand show a little solid arrow in the centre of the hollow shaped spade. Fun fact is that these hands are made of solid gold. Not something you see often these days.
Now some more uncommon hands that might have been a bit forgotten in today’s watch market.
These pocket watch hands are nevertheless interesting in design and origin.
Hollow Spade
Here we see a hollow spade hand on an 18th century verge fusee pocket watch I bought a year ago in the west of England. Both the hour and minute hand show a little solid arrow in the centre of the hollow shaped spade. Fun fact is that these hands are made of solid gold. Not something you see often these days.
Omega
You might have seen this one before. No idea why none of the other big brands use their logo as hour markers, or in this case, in their hands.
This 1910s Omega pocket watch has a high grade chronometer movement that I have only come across once after handeling this example.
Omega
You might have seen this one before. No idea why none of the other big brands use their logo as hour markers, or in this case, in their hands.
This 1910s Omega pocket watch has a high grade chronometer movement that I have only come across once after handeling this example.
Sun
This 1790s pocket watch with date function has three identical ‘sun’ hands in different lengths. The shortest indicating the hours, the middle one indicating the date of the month and the longest of three reaching the gold minute markers. Again, these verge fusee pocket watches have many characteristics that have somehow been lost in today’s watch market with Breguet being the only ‘big’ watch company using their heritage in the company’s current modern collection.
Sun
This 1790s pocket watch with date function has three identical ‘sun’ hands in different lengths. The shortest indicating the hours, the middle one indicating the date of the month and the longest of three reaching the gold minute markers. Again, these verge fusee pocket watches have many characteristics that have somehow been lost in today’s watch market with Breguet being the only ‘big’ watch company using their heritage in the company’s current modern collection.